James Bay Then & Now – January 2010

James Bay Then & Now – Medana/Medina – the name’s the same

Victoria’s Lost Industries – Part 3

Image Credit: Courtesy of Elite Home Vacations (view today from historic downtown Victoria out to the James Bay neighborhood (including the Inn at Laurel Point, the Shoal Point condos and the Ogden Point Cruiseship Terminal), and beyond to the Sooke Peninusula foothills in the distance). 

Reprinted with the kind permission of John Adams, a local author, historian, and James Bay resident; this article originally appeared in its entirety in the July/August issue of Douglas Magazine).

Inner Harbour Mudflats

The Pendray family is synonymous with the rise of Victoria’s industries. William Pendray opened his soap factory in 1875 along the northern shoreline of the James Bay mudflats (where Humbolt Street is today). His White Swan brand and "electric" soap were big sellers and no one paid much attences to the soap lees that sometimes spread out into the harbour. Plans to fill in the mudflats prompted Pendray to relocate the works to Laurel Point where he also began manufacturing paint, shellac, and varnish. A sign on the roof of the factory proclaimed to all arriving by steamer that this was the home of the British American Paint Company (BAPCO). Oil drums lined the shoreline and pipes spewed coloured liquids of dubious content into the water until the plant was teaken over by Canadian Industries Limited and moved to Surrey, B.C. in 1974. The Inn at Laurel Point graces the site today.
 

Breweries and More

Victoria’s hardworking factory workers were able to slake their thirst on beer brewed in the city’s numerous breweries. The first one started up in 1858 and, in 1870, was bought out by Joseph Loewen and Emil Erb, two enterprising Germans who named the business the Victoria Phoenix Brewing Company. By 1891, they boasted an annual production of 120,000 gallons that supplied customers throughout British Columbia and along the coast. The impressive brewery building stood on the 1900-block of Government Street, until the 1980s when it was demolished by Labatt’s. Other breweries came and went — the Lion, Bavarian, Silver Spring — but eventually all closed and Victorians could only drink beer brought in from elsewhere.

Many other factories and workshops opened and closed in Victoria during the 1800s and early 1900s. Residents could purchase vinegar, boots, shoes, clothing, candles, roofing felt, peanut butter, rice, flour, industrial chemicals, dynamite, dairy products of all descriptions, and even cigars and opium made or processed right in their own city.

Vancouver: The Young Upstart

Victoria was the undisputed industrial powerhouse of the province until Vancouver sprang up as the western terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1886. Some in the capital city were smug about the poential for the mainland city but soon realized Vancouver’s superb harbour and new rail connections to the rest of North America gave it a distinct advantage.

Still, Victoria remained bigger until about 1898. Unwilling to admit defeat, the city’s plutocrats devised many schemes to bring prosperity back to Victoria. One such plan in 1897 was prepared by architect Thomas Sorby and called for filling in the shoreline to provide land for new factories, warehouses, railyards, and deepsea docks. Hopes were high in the early 1900s when the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway was seriously proposing to bridge Seymour Narrows and bring a transcontinental railway line to Vancouver Island with Victoria as its terminus.

The breakwater and industrial development at Ogden Point were tied to that vision, also spurred by the completion of the Panama Canal in 1914. However, the railway dream faded and the Panama Canal never quite brought the shippiing to Victoria that the businessmen had hoped for. A grain elevator was built in the 1920s but was never a success. A rail barge slip, a textile factory, fish packing plant, and a few other factories hardly achieved the site’s full potential. Lumber was shipped from Ogden Point for many years, but eventually the freighters no longer stopped there. By the end of the 20th century, Ogden Point was a barren parking lot until cruise ship companies discovered it.

Victoria’s industrial past may surprise young people or those who are new to the city. Though a few former industrial sites lie vacant, many have already been redeveloped or are in the planning stages, typically for townhouses, office and commercial space, parks and walkways. However, one exciting phenomenon is seeing some industries being revived in Victoria. Craft breweries, organic bakeries, custom furniture makers, and specialty woodworks and ironworks are among the businesses that now attract considerable attention. They are on a much smaller scale than their predecessors but, nevertheless are continuing a proud tradition of manufacturing in the capital city that extends back to its earliest days.

Victoria’s Lost Industries – Part 2

Image Credit: Times Colonist – Victoria Machinery Depot #2 – Ogden Point, James Bay – Victoria, BC

Reprinted with the kind permission of John Adams, a local author, historian, and James Bay resident; this article originally appeared in its entirety in the July/August issue of Douglas Magazine).

Cast Iron and Shipbuilding

Cast iron was another commodity once imported to Victoria. The elaborate iron columns that adorn the facade of the Rithet Building at 1117 Wharf Street bear the foundry mark of P. Donahue’s Union Iron Works, San Francisco, 1961. However, the Albion Iron Works began in Victoria that same year and soon was producing a wide array of cast iron items as diverse as stoves, fence panels,  and machinery for canneries, mining, and logging, in addition to fabricating other metal products such as boilers. In 1888, when the Rithet Building was expanded, the Albion Iron Works was called upon to replicate the original columns from California. Their foundry was located north of Chinatown on 3.5 acres of land, mainly on the block bounded by Store, Discovery, Government, and Herald Streets. The name "Albion" literally became a household word along the Pacific Coast as many homes and fishing boats had Albion stoves in their kitchens and galleys. In 1891, the firm employed over 250 people but suffered a major setback when a fire in the early 1990s wiped out most of the facility. It continued to operate for many more years in new buildings built on the ashes, until the company dissolved in 1928.

The Victoria Machinery Depot was founded by Charles Spratt in the 1860s along the water’s edge near the Point Ellice Bridge. Soon it was producing boilers and ships, including prefabricated steamers for the Klondike Gold Rush. Early in the Second World War, it received a contract for ine freighters of 10,000 tons apiece and opened a second facility. Thus, in 1941, it purchased Rithet’s Outer Wharf (soon to be known as VMD No. 2) and 27 adjacent acres of land where shipbuilding expanded during and after the war.

In 1958, the first vessels for the B.C. Ferries fleet were started at VMD No. 2 and launched in 1960. Its most famous contract was in 1966 and l967 when it built SEDCO 135-F, the world’s largest offshore oil drilling platform at that time, but it also marked the end of an era. The James Bay site closed in 1967, while VMN No. 1 on Bay Street operated through financial difficulties until 1994. At the time, it was the city’s oldest industry still actually in production.

Victoria’s Oldest Company

One business even older than VMD still legally exists, but has not manufactured anything for a long time. The oldest active incorporated company in British Columbia is the Victoria Gas Company, founded in 1860 by an act of the Colonial Assembly of Vancouver Island. It granted a five-year monopoly to a group of local investors who established a gasification plant at Rock Bay and imported the equipment from Scotland. They used coal from Nanaimo which was unloaded at a whart in front of the facility and then heated in a retort to drive off the coal gas. Distinctive gasometers held the gas under press that was piped throughout the downtown area, mostly for lighting in shops, residences, and street lights. Producing coal gas gives off a foul, suphurous aroma that must have made living in the vicinity of the works rather unpleasant, but many prominent families, such as the Finlaysons, continued to do so for many decades.

Furniture and Bread

Fine furniture was once manufactured in Victoria. Sir John A. Macdonald’s National Policy called for protective tariffs to encourage Canadian industries and, in keeping with this, in 1879, the tariff on furniture rose to 35 per cent. It had the desired effect in Victoria by spawning two major furniture factories. The name Weiler was best known and one of the oldest in the field, having started in Victoria in 1961 as upholsterers and later furniture dealers. In 1879, German-born Weiler constructed a furniture factory at what is now known as the Counting House at the corner of Broad and Broughton streets. Later, he built an even bigger one on Humboldt Street and his four sons, who took over the business under the name Weiler Brothers in 1891, erected an impressive store and factory (still standing) at the corner of Government and Broughton streets.

Jacob Sehl, another German, also started selling furniture in Victoria in 1861 and, like John Weiler, built a furniture factory in 1879. In 1891, Sehl joined forces with another local company to form Sehl-Hastie-Erskine Furniture Company.

The largest commercial bakery in Victoria, and probably in all of British Columbia, during the late 1800s, was M.R. Smith and Company, located at the foot of Niagara Street in James Bay. Moses Smith, a member of the black community, began baking bread in the city in 1858, and the firm grew steadily until he opened a state-of-the-art three-story steam factory bakery in 1889. At the time, he employed 26 hands and produced breads, pastries, and other confestions that he distributed as far away as Alaska.

Other commercial bakers also operated in Victoria. However, after 1960, when B.C. Ferries began to operate, it became difficult to compete with fresh bread trucked daily to the Island from larger bakeries in the Lower Mainland. One by one, the big commercial bakers in Victoria closed.

Victoria’s Lost Industries – Part 1

Image Credit: Nick Messenger, U.K. 

Reprinted with the kind permission of John Adams, a local author, historian, and James Bay resident; this article originally appeared in its entirety in the July/August issue of Douglas Magazine).

As recently as 30 years ago, large tracts around the harbour were occupied by railway yards, factories, and oil tanks. Access to the water’s edge often was a risky business back then. On many days, visibility was obscured by the clouds of smoke and fly ash that hung perpetually over parts of the city.

Victoria used to be a dirty, noisy, and smoky industrial seaport — almost a foreign city compared to the place we know today. Long before Vancovuer had been founded, Victoria was the principal shipping port, the manufacturing centre, and the supply depot for all of B.C.

Visions of Money and Progress

When Bastion Square’s Board of Trade building was built in 1892, the plans called for a lookout tower on the roof, but a severe economic slump coincided with the project and the tower was never started. These days it’s difficult to imagine that Victoria used to be the industrial and financial powerhouse of British Columbia. In fact, the Board of Trade was not just for the capital city but also for the entire province. Members — almost all from Victoria — formed a plutocracy of businessmen who controlled much of the province’s manufacturing, shipping, mining, and logging. These were the men who had dreamed about climbing into the tower to gaze out over the harbour to survey their corporate domains.

David Ker of Brackman-Ker Milling Company might have looked towards Shoal Point where his vast new flour mill dominated the shoreline. Robert Paterson Rithet, former mayor of the city and owner of Hawaiian sugar plantations, might have gazed beyond the mill to the Outer Wharf, which he had established in the 1880s as the first deepsea dock in the region. William Pendray could have looked toward the modern-day site of the Fairmount Empress Hotel, where his soap works was perched over the edge of the mudflats. Others could look northward to the gas works, tanneries, sawmills, and shipyards. When they saw the smokestacks sending up plumes of smoke and soot and a creating pungent aroma, they saw and smelled money and progress.

During the era of the Hudson’s Bay Company from 1843 to 1858, there was little industry around the wooden stockade known as Fort Victoria. Chief Factor James Douglas had selected the site, in the vicinity of Bastion Square, because it was close to the harbour, surrounded by arable land, and near large tracts of timber.

The first attempt at manufacturing was to harness the water of Rowe Stream (now called Mill Stream) in 1849 in present-day View Royal. A flume was constructed and a waterwheel built to turn the machinery for grinding grain and sawing lumber. However, the enterprise was doomed to failure when mechanical problems beset the machinery and the source of water dried up during the summer. Eventually a steam engine replaced the stream, but the mill was never a success. Several other short-lived, small-scale manufacturing activities, such as lime burning, brick making, baking and saw milling, grew up at Craigflower Farm and other farms associated with the Hudson’s Bay Company during the mid-1850s.

The Fraser River Cold Rush of 1858 and subsequent rushes to Cariboo and other places created a boom-and-bust cycle of growth and development in Victoria through the late 1800s.

Early Industry

Some of the industries were related to the growth of the city. Brickyards operated in the early 1850s and expanded after 1858. The Porter Brothers opened a facility near Rock Bay. Soon other brickyards — Baker Brothers, Elford and Smith, Victoria Brick and Tile — were extracting glacial clay from a vast deposit north of Hillside Avene. Their kilns sent a blanket of smudge over the north end of the city until the last plant closed in 1961. Mayfair Shopping Centre occupies the site today.

The fact that Victoria once imported sawn lumber from California may seem like sending coal to Newcastle, but the sawsmills in the Golden State were in production much earlier. Many heritage houses such as Emily Carr’s birthplace on Government Street, contain California redwood mouldings because they weren’t being made here.

Before sawmills became a major part of Victoria’s industrial base, mills in outlying places, such as Sooke and Port Alberni, were producing dimensional lumber for export to England and elsewhere. However, by the 1880s, logs were being towed in booms into Victoria Harbour to feed an ever-growing number of mills that multiplied during the first half of the 20th century. The telltale log booms chained to the rocky shoreline, the log hauls snaking up out of the water, the smokestacks, and the beehive burners became landmarks around the harbour.

Among the more famous mills were the Sayward sawmill near the north end of Store Street, McCarter’s single mill at Rock Bay, Cameron Sawmill at Point Ellice, Smith Brothers near the west end of the Point Ellice Bridge, and Plumper Bay Sawmill at Equimalt Harbour. In addition, smaller firms such as Muirhead and Mann and Lemon, Gonasson, and Company operated sawmills, sash and door factories, and planing mills.

Gradually each one closed or was absorbed by larger companies. Fires also destroyed many of them. The last major plant on Victoria Harbour was a rambling operation run by B.C. Forest Products, which had taken over several small mills. In the 1980s, it was bought out by now-defunct Fletcher Challenge, a New Zealand-based giant, and continued to produce plywood, presto logs, and other commodities until the parent company decided to shit it permanently.

Then the saws stood still and the smoke that constantly filled the air was gone. Deconstruction of the site began in 1989, but a few reminders of the old plant have been incorporated into the walkways and landscaping around Selkirk Waterway, the residential and office complext developed by Jawl Holdings.

The Story of Victoria Told Through Its Buildings

Image Credit: Victoria, B.C. buildings along Wharf Street – Flickr.com

James Bay, Victoria, British Columbia’s oldest neighborhood, will be hosting a higher-learning course for history buffs this week!

The University of Victoria will be delivering a special continuing education course, "The Past is Present: The Story of victoria Told Through Its Buildings"  in Amica at Somerset House, 540 Dallas Road, on Thursday, October 15 from 1:30 to 3:00 pm (Course Code: ASH1444 2009F E01 – Cost $20 plus $1 GST).

The lecture will focus on Victoria’s history and architecture using archival photographs matched with new photographs taken from the identical spot. The city is a rich source of man-made structures from the First Nations longhouses, through log cabins, Gothic design, homesteads, as well as arts and crafts not to mention modern and "cargotecture" examples.

The presentation will highlight an array of styles and materials used in Victoria’s buildings to demonstrate the evolution of the man-made environment in the province’s capital city. And to conclude the seminar, participants will be invited to respond to the question, "What will tomorrow’s heritage buildings look like?"

The instructor for the afternoon will be Nick Russell, Ph.D. and president of the Hallmark Society and a researcher for the Victoria Heritage Foundation, who was also honored in 2002 for his volunteer work with the Land Conservancy, restoring the Ross Bay Villa.

Given the popularity of the topic, and the scenic setting for this seminar, those interested in learning more about Victoria’s archictectural history may have to wait to another time (or perhaps request ’standing room only’ in Amica at Somerset House this time!)

The History of the First People Who Call This Land Their Home

Image Credit: City of Victoria – Lekwungen Sign on the Lower Causeway, Inner Harbour of Victoria, BC -  Carving represents "Four Directions of the Eagle" — eagles are the messengers of the sun (grandfather) and the moon (grandmother) and are far-sighted and strong.

35th Anniversary of James Bay New Horizons Activity Centre

A page from the history of a venerable Victorian neighborhood -

On September 18, 2009, the James Bay New Horizons Society, (representing retired individuals and those wishing to become more actively involved in the life of their community), will be celebrating its 35^th anniversary. 

Artifact or Artifiction?

Image Credit: ClipArt of "CO

The Royal BC Museum in James Bay, Victoria, BC will be holding its Fifth Annual Fall Fundraiser entitled, "Artifact or Artifiction", on Thursday, October 8, 2009.

Amusing archivists, clever curators, and comically-inspired conservators will mix and mingle with guests at this gala game event designed to test the knowledge of patrons and party-goers who will be asked to identify whether the intriguing information provided about twenty peculiar artifacts on display is based on fact or simply a figment of someone’s fertile imagination.

All funds raised will go towards the protection and preservation of Helmcken House and St. Ann’s Schoolhouse, two of the oldest buildings in British Columbia.  These heritage structures, part of the Royal BC Museum, represent British Columbia’s pioneering history. It is hoped that this event will raise $150,000 towards the museum’s half-million dollar fundraising goal this fall to save these structures from the threat of fire damage.

Date: Thursday, September 8, 2009

Time: 6:30 pm

Venue: Reception at Clifford Carl Hall while the game will held in the Galleries of the Royal BC Museum, 675 Belleville Street, Victoria, BC

Attire: Dress up (in your glad rags or best bib and tucker!)

Event Details: Guests will be treated to a sumptuous array of fine finger foods, a scintillating selection of BC wines and hops, and delicious deserts generously donated by Truffles Catering,  Cascadia Fine Wine Ale & Spirits, and Canoe Brewpub, Restaurant & Marina. 

Tickets: $125 per person; tickets may be obtained by phone: 250.387.7222 or by emailing: events@royalbcmuseum.bc.ca. (Or, if unable to attend the event, please feel free to make an online donation, every little bit counts!)

James Bay’s Irving Park